Cribbage Flush In The Crib

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Discarding to opponent's crib

Cribbage Flush In The Crib Patterns
Cribbage Flush In The Crib Combo
Cribbage Flush In The Crib

Can you score a flush in cribbage SIDS is 4 or more cards in the same suit (for example, four diamonds). If you hold 4 cards of the same suit in your hand, you score 4. If the degeneration card is also the same suit, you score 5. However, in the crib, only a 5-card blush will be considered (the 4 cards in the crib and the degeneration card. A flush in cribbage is 4 or more cards all of the same suit (for example, four diamonds). If you hold 4 cards of the same suit in your hand, you score 4. If the turn-up card is also the same suit, you score 5. However, in the crib, only a 5-card flush will count (the 4 cards in the crib and the turn-up card must all be the same suit). It is a crib hand of one suit, 46J and another ten card, with a 5 of that suit cut up. The points are 15 for 6, a run for 9, nobs for 10, and a flush for 15. Any of the following cards in an unlike suit yields a '19 hand'; 2,3,7,8,and an unpaired ten card. Oct 04, 2012 Remember that a flush in the crib only counts if the cut card is the same suit as the cards in the crib, so it’s significantly less common than a flush in the hand. Around 0.17% of cribs hold a flush (1 in 588). Even when dealer tosses two suited cards in her crib she still only ends up with a flush 0.81% of the time (1 in 123).

Let's continue our look at the discarding tables compiled by Hessel, Colvert and Rasmussen by examining the discard to opponent's crib. This is usually a more difficult proposition than discarding to your own crib, since you must balance two contradictory goals: maximizing the value of your hand and minimizing the value of dealer's crib. A good way to develop a feel for this is to study the following tables, which give the average value of the crib for each of the possible two-card tosses.

The methodologies behind these tables were described in the previous article, so I'll go straight to the data. Naturally, since we're discarding to opponent's crib, lower numbers are better.

Discarding to opponent's crib (Hessel)

A	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10	J	Q	K
A	6.07	5.07	5.17	5.74	6.06	4.93	4.95	4.92	4.66	4.46	4.72	4.41	4.34
2	5.07	6.43	7.34	5.44	6.17	5.13	5.12	5.03	4.82	4.64	4.91	4.60	4.53
3	5.17	7.34	6.78	6.10	6.85	4.92	5.16	5.08	4.82	4.70	4.97	4.66	4.59
4	5.74	5.44	6.10	6.59	7.46	5.47	4.91	5.02	4.75	4.55	4.80	4.49	4.43
5	6.06	6.17	6.85	7.46	9.39	7.66	7.08	6.36	6.22	7.46	7.75	7.42	7.31
6	4.93	5.13	4.92	5.47	7.66	7.17	6.64	6.05	6.31	4.41	4.61	4.29	4.25
7	4.95	5.12	5.16	4.91	7.08	6.64	7.25	7.88	5.46	4.44	4.73	4.44	4.38
8	4.92	5.03	5.08	5.02	6.36	6.05	7.88	6.76	5.97	5.02	4.65	4.38	4.31
9	4.66	4.82	4.82	4.75	6.22	6.31	5.46	5.97	6.44	5.52	4.98	4.14	4.13
10	4.46	4.64	4.70	4.55	7.46	4.41	4.44	5.02	5.52	6.11	5.60	4.65	3.99
J	4.72	4.91	4.97	4.80	7.75	4.61	4.73	4.65	4.98	5.60	6.56	5.55	4.89
Q	4.41	4.60	4.66	4.49	7.42	4.29	4.44	4.38	4.14	4.65	5.55	5.89	4.56
K	4.34	4.53	4.59	4.43	7.31	4.25	4.38	4.31	4.13	3.99	4.89	4.56	5.72

Discarding to opponent's crib (Colvert)

A	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10	J	Q	K
A	6.2	5.0	5.1	5.7	6.0	4.9	4.9	4.8	4.6	4.4	4.7	4.4	4.3
2	5.0	6.4	7.3	5.3	6.1	5.0	5.0	4.9	4.8	4.6	4.8	4.5	4.4
3	5.1	7.3	6.8	5.9	6.7	4.9	5.0	5.0	4.8	4.6	4.9	4.5	4.4
4	5.7	5.3	5.9	6.6	7.2	5.3	4.8	4.9	4.7	4.5	4.7	4.4	4.3
5	6.0	6.1	6.7	7.2	9.3	7.4	6.9	6.2	6.1	7.4	7.6	7.3	7.2
6	4.9	5.0	4.9	5.3	7.4	7.0	6.4	5.7	6.3	4.3	4.5	4.2	4.1
7	4.9	5.0	5.0	4.8	6.9	6.4	7.1	7.8	5.2	4.3	4.7	4.3	4.2
8	4.8	4.9	5.0	4.9	6.2	5.7	7.8	6.6	5.7	4.9	4.6	4.3	4.2
9	4.6	4.8	4.8	4.7	6.1	6.3	5.2	5.7	6.3	5.4	5.0	4.1	4.0
10	4.4	4.6	4.6	4.5	7.4	4.3	4.3	4.9	5.4	6.0	5.4	4.5	3.8
J	4.7	4.8	4.9	4.7	7.6	4.5	4.7	4.6	5.0	5.4	6.5	5.4	4.7
Q	4.4	4.5	4.5	4.4	7.3	4.2	4.3	4.3	4.1	4.5	5.4	5.8	4.4
K	4.3	4.4	4.4	4.3	7.2	4.1	4.2	4.2	4.0	3.8	4.7	4.4	5.6

Discarding to opponent's crib (Rasmussen)

A	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10	J	Q	K
A	5.59	5.17	4.96	5.62	5.81	4.97	4.81	4.84	4.34	4.54	4.64	4.24	4.33
2	5.17	6.19	7.52	5.21	5.79	4.79	4.80	4.90	4.57	4.54	4.61	4.58	4.45
3	4.95	7.52	6.11	5.74	6.72	4.81	4.85	5.20	5.18	4.58	4.71	4.61	4.43
4	5.61	5.20	5.74	6.00	6.44	5.06	5.00	4.94	4.57	4.58	5.14	4.50	4.36
5	5.81	5.79	6.72	6.43	9.09	6.87	7.08	6.39	6.06	7.22	8.14	7.10	7.13
6	4.96	4.79	4.81	5.05	6.86	6.30	6.18	5.86	6.20	4.22	4.53	4.14	4.08
7	4.81	4.80	4.84	4.99	7.08	6.17	6.93	6.67	5.10	4.17	4.69	4.24	4.25
8	4.84	4.90	5.19	4.93	6.39	5.86	6.67	7.91	5.89	5.59	4.58	4.30	4.15
9	4.33	4.57	5.17	4.57	6.06	6.20	5.10	5.89	6.52	5.30	4.86	4.12	3.94
10	4.54	4.53	4.57	4.57	7.21	4.22	4.17	5.58	5.29	6.19	5.95	4.64	3.85
J	4.64	4.61	4.70	5.14	8.13	4.53	4.69	4.57	4.86	5.95	5.64	5.46	4.63
Q	4.23	4.57	4.61	4.50	7.10	4.14	4.24	4.29	4.11	4.63	5.46	5.36	4.52
K	4.33	4.45	4.43	4.36	7.12	4.07	4.24	4.15	3.93	3.84	4.62	4.51	5.59

Once again, the Hessel and Colvert figures match each other closely, the most notable disparities concerning mid-card tosses such as 6-7, 6-8 and 7-9, to which Hessel gives higher values than Colvert. Rasmussen's averages, which closely matched the others for discarding to your own crib, occasionally differ markedly for discarding to opponent's crib. Most of the departures concern dangerous tosses such as 7-8 or 8-8. Since Ras's figures are based on his own games, there are far fewer samples for these tosses than for less dangerous (and thus more common) ones. For example, in 87,111 tabulated discards to his opponents' cribs, the 10-K toss occurred 3,884 times, the 5-5 toss only 58 times. This results in a disproportionately large statistical margin of error for 5-5 and other infrequent tosses, and this probably accounts for most of the difference between Ras's figures and the others.

In fact, for the most frequent discards (those averaging under five points in opponent's crib), the three tables match each other quite closely. The only significant exception is A-9, which Ras reckons gives up 4.34 points, 0.3 less than Hessel and Colvert.

Here is a summary of notable differences between Rasmussen's figures and the others:

Toss:
Average crib:
Rasmussen Colvert (Diff.) Hessel (Diff.)
5-J 8.14 7.6 +0.5 7.75 +0.4
8-8 7.91 6.6 +1.3 6.76 +1.1
5-6 6.87 7.4 -0.5 7.66 -0.8
7-8 6.67 7.8 -1.1 7.88 -1.2
4-5 6.44 7.2 -0.8 7.46 -1.0
6-6 6.30 7.0 -0.7 7.17 -0.9
6-7 6.18 6.3 -0.1 6.64 -0.5
3-3 6.11 6.8 -0.7 6.78 -0.7
4-4 6.00 6.6 -0.6 6.59 -0.6
10-J 5.95 5.4 +0.6 5.60 +0.4
J-J 5.64 6.5 -0.9 6.56 -0.9
A-A 5.59 6.2 -0.6 6.07 -0.5
8-10 5.59 4.9 +0.7 5.02 +0.6
Q-Q 5.36 5.8 -0.4 5.89 -0.5
3-9 5.18 4.8 +0.4 4.82 +0.4
4-J 5.14 4.7 +0.4 4.80 +0.3
4-6 5.06 5.3 -0.2 5.47 -0.4
A-9 4.34 4.6 -0.3 4.66 -0.3

As with the dealer numbers, I have distilled these three pone discard tables into a single set of figures for use in my own personal analysis and over-the-board decision-making. Click here to see them.

The tables reinforce most of the conventional wisdom about discarding as pone. Nevertheless, there are a few surprises.

Clearly the most dangerous cards to toss are 5s and two-card combinations totaling five or fifteen. Somewhat less dangerous are mid-card pairs, followed by low pairs and then high pairs. Since all of these combinations are worth two points going in (remember, any five-card hand containing an A-4, 2-3 or 5must be worth at least two points), the danger of tossing any of them to your opponent's crib is obvious.

Less obvious is the danger of tossing two mid-cards that don't form a pair or 15. Note, for example, how the 6-7 discard gives up more points than A-A, A-4, A-5, 2-5, 5-9, Q-Q and K-K, even though the latter tosses are worth two going in! Likewise, 6-8 and 8-9 are riskier than A-4 and K-K, and Hessel and Ras give 3-4 as more dangerous than A-A, A-4, Q-Q and K-K. As noted last time, touching cards derive more added value in the crib than pairs, which have relatively few possibilities for improvement.

Touching cards are much safer to throw if they are edge cards that can only be extended into a run in one direction. These are about as safe as near cards (cards separated by one rank) which form a run only when combined with an 'inside' card. Thus the 3-4 toss (touching cards), which can form a run with either a 2 or a 5, is more dangerous than A-2 (edge cards) or A-3 (near cards). Likewise, 9-10, 10-J and J-Q give up about a point more than 10-Q, J-K and Q-K. In fact, the latter three tosses are surprisingly safe, often preferable to tossing a wider, but lower, combination such as 3-8 or 4-7.

As you would expect, tossing a J adds roughly ¼ point to the value of the crib, due to the possibility of His Nobs. If you toss an A, 2, 3 or 4 to dealer's crib, it's better to toss a 9, 10, Q or K with it, instead of a J. If you must split a pair of Js, toss the J from the longer suit. Thus, from this hand:

A 5 10 J J Q

toss A J, not A J. The J will fetch one point on ten different cuts (since you were dealt three diamonds). The J will fetch one point on 12 cuts.

In the above example, note that the J toss is statistically correct even though it means risking a crib flush. Your chance of giving up this rarest of cribbage scores is about 1 in 140 when you toss two cards of the same suit. This represents an added risk of approximately .036 points . If you tossed the J instead, you would add .043 points to the average value of the crib while subtracting the same value from your hand, for a deficit of .086 points. Granted, it's a subtlety, but then, cribbage is a subtle game. DeLynn Colvert discusses J discards on p. 50 of Play Winning Cribbage (Third Edition).

Note that the 1 in 140 chance of giving up a crib flush on a same-suit discard as pone is a tad higher than the corresponding 1 in 150 chance of getting a crib flush as dealer (see How to analyze discards, part 1). This is because a same-suit discard more likely to be made by dealer than by pone.

What are the best tosses to your opponent's crib? Wide cards obviously, but which ones? It turns out that tossing a mid-card and a high card is safer than tossing a low card and a high card. This is because a combination such as 8-K cannot possibly be combined into a single score, unlike a combo such as A-K, which can make a 15 with the addition of a 4. Either alternative is safer than tossing a low card and a mid-card.

The single safest card to throw your opponent has long been assumed to be the K, and this is borne out by Hessel's and Colvert's tables. However, Rasmussen's statistics often give the edge to the Q instead. For example, Ras has K-K giving up more points on average than Q-Q, while in Colvert and Hessel's figures, the reverse is true. Have Ras's figures been distorted by the statistical margin of error in his samples? Perhaps, but a more likely explanation is cribbage psychology.

Many human players, especially experienced ones, will actually toss a lone K to their own crib in preference to a lone Q, under the assumption that a K is more likely to be paired by pone's toss. Some cribbage textbooks even advocate this explicitly: see p. 37 of Colvert's book, where he advises tossing 2-K (not 2-10) to your own crib from 2-5-10-J-Q-K. Wergin recommends the exact same toss from this hand on p. 90 of Win at Cribbage. If your opponent follows this advice, you will probably give up fewer pairs, over the long run, by tossing her a Q instead of a K. However, since the K is less likely to become part of a run, you'll give up fewer runs with the K. This is probably why Rasmussen's statistics give 9-Q a better chance of producing a bust crib than 9-K, even though the latter toss gives up fewer average points.

The Q/K debate is an effective demonstration of the human bias in Rasmussen's figures, which are based on real games, compared with the computer bias of Hessel's and Colvert's figures, which are based on software simulations.

Here is a compendium of the safest tosses to opponent's crib, based on Rasmussen's numbers. In most cases, you are concerned with giving up the fewest average points, and the tosses on the left do just that. 10-K is best, followed by 9-K, 6-K, 9-Q and so on. If you are playing desperation defense, try one of the tosses in the middle list. These have the best chance of holding the crib to two points or less. But some of them are risky: discards such as 10-Q, 10-K and Q-K tend to be all-or-nothing affairs, producing lots of bust cribs, but lots of barnburners as well. Finally, if you're protecting a large lead, you might try one of the tosses on the right, which are the least likely to give up a crib worth eight or more points.

Optimal discards to opponent's crib (Rasmussen)
Toss:
Average crib:
Toss:
Cribs worth 2 or less:
Toss:
Cribs worth 8 or more:
10-K 3.85 10-K 45.5% 9-Q 11.5%
9-K 3.94 Q-K 42.4% 9-K 11.6%
6-K 4.08 9-Q 42.2% 7-10 12.7%
9-Q 4.12 6-K 41.4% 6-K 13.1%
6-Q 4.14 10-Q 41.0% 8-Q 13.1%
8-K 4.15 6-Q 40.0% A-3 13.1%
7-10 4.17 4-Q 39.6% 8-K 13.2%
6-10 4.22 4-K 39.5% 6-10 14.2%
A-Q 4.24 6-10 39.1% 7-K 14.3%
7-Q
4.24
8-K 38.3% 3-7 14.4%
7-K 4.25 7-K 38.3% 10-K 14.4%
8-Q 4.30 9-K 38.1% 2-J 14.5%
A-K 4.33 4-10 38.1% 6-Q 14.7%

Some tosses appear in only one list, others appear in all three, but in different places. This demonstrates that the specific toss you make to your opponent's crib should be dictated by the requirements of your board position, and that the same hand may be played differently depending on the score. Suppose you're dealt:

A-3-7-9-10-K

What do you toss if the score is?

90-90*
105-86*
105-98*
114-111*

(remember, the asterisks indicate the player dealing)

Answers:

90-90*
You need to score at least a half dozen points here to get into good position (96+ points) for your three counts. Keeping A-3-9-10 will get you the most points, on average, of any four-card combination available to you. It's also a decent pegging hand, with two low cards and two higher touching cards. Although the resulting 7-K toss is not as safe as 9-K or 10-K, it's safe enough for this situation, since dealer is also six points short of the positional hole (96).
105-86*
Your lousy hand gives you no chance of going out this deal, so forget about trying for a skunk. You must maximize your chances of going out on the three consecutive counts you'll get starting next deal (your hand and crib as dealer, then your hand as pone on the following deal). You already have 105 points, so this shouldn't be too hard, provided your opponent doesn't go out first. Since she's only at 86, you should be playing the cribbage equivalent of a prevent defense. This means sacrificing a point here or there to prevent a major catastrophe, such as a barnburner crib. Toss the combination with the least chance of giving up an 8+ point crib: the 9-K.
Yes, 10-K gives up the fewest points on average, but as Rasmussen points out, it's an all-or-nothing toss. If it doesn't catch a 5, you have an excellent chance of shutting out your opponent's crib. But if it does catch a 5 (in the cut or dealer's discard), you're in deep trouble. Indeed, the 10-K toss can give up as many as 20 points (if the other three cards are all 5s), exactly the kind of ass-kicker crib that can turn an easy win into a loss. The worst you could do with 9-K is to give up 14 points (again, with three 5s). That still isn't great, but it's a lot more survivable in this position.
105-98*
Again, you're at 105 points, and you know you can't go out this deal with the cards you were dealt. Unfortunately, dealer is at 98 points, close enough to go out on her three counts with average cards. Your only hope is to slow her down so that she doesn't go out as pone next deal. If that happens, you'll be a heavy favorite to go out on your three counts, even if you don't score a single point here. Toss 10-K and take your best shot at shutting out her crib.
114-111*
If you don't go out with this hand, dealer almost certainly will, regardless of what you toss. So keep A-3-9-10, retaining your only shot at the seven points you need (on a 2 cut). If you cut an A, 3 or 5 instead, you'll get four points — enough to win if you also manage to peg three (say, by getting a pair and a go).

If you're unfamiliar with things like positional holes and three counts, then I recommend reading the Cribbage for the Expert chapter of Colvert's Play Winning Cribbage, and Part II of Chamber's Cribbage: A New Concept. You can view excerpts from both books at the ACC's online Cribbage Tip Library.

A final thought: the average crib given up by Rasmussen is 4.68 points, quite a bit lower than the 4.84 points he gets in his own cribs. If you project that spread over the nine deals of an average game, it's an advantage of .72 points per game over his opponents. That might not seem like much, but even a one point spread per game translates into a 2% increase in winning percentage (Colvert, p. 114) — proof that studying discarding technique pays off in the long run!

- March 2000 (updated May 2001)

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Rationale for not scoring a 4-card crib flush?

Submitted by Visitor on Sat, 01/05/2013 - 18:04

I am new to the game of cribbage and am curious about the conspicuously negative rule excluding four-card crib flushes. This rule seems to be begging for a good mathematical explanation. Statistics seems like the right explanation, but the five-card crib flush is very improbable and intuitively does not seem to justify a special rule excluding the four-card flush.

Cribbage flush

A flush in cribbage is 4 or more cards all of the same suit (for example, four diamonds). If you hold 4 cards of the same suit in your hand, you score 4. If the turn-up card is also the same suit, you score 5.

However, in the crib, only a 5-card flush will count (the 4 cards in the crib and the turn-up card must all be the same suit).

See the main cribbage rules page for more information, and also our cribbage scoring chart.

500 Cribbage

What is Five Hundred Cribbage?

I am indebted to Mr Herb Barge who sent me scans of a book written by a distant relative of his in the 30s, Thomas B. Stauff. This book, entitled 'Rules of Play governing '500' Cribbage, Thomas system, a Modern Version of Cribbage', appears to be a fairly radical re-working of the game.

Counting 4-4-4-3-3

Submitted by admin on Tue, 11/17/2009 - 13:03

Juli emailed us to ask:

could you help solve an argument.
The hand is 4-4-4-3 with another 3 turned up.
I counted 15-2, 15-4, 6pts for the 4s and 2pts for the pair of threes for a total point count of 12.
Is this correct?

Juli,

Exactly right! The 4-4-4 makes 15 two ways, once with each of the 3s. There's a pair royal of 4s (6 points) and a pair of 3s, no runs, flushes or nobs equals 12 points total.

Cribbage Flush In The Crib Patterns

Cribbage rules - the scoring

(Previous section: Cribbage rules - the go)

Having played out all the cards, both players then score their hands, pone first - this time including the turn-up card as part of both hands. The dealer's crib also includes the turn-up. Again, points are scored for 15s, runs, and pairs; you can also score for a flush (all cards of the same suit) - see the cribbage scoring chart below for a handy reference. It is a key part of the rules of cribbage that the non-dealer should score first - at the end of the game, both players may have enough points to win, and the right to score first will determine victory. The cribbage board's positions usually alternate during the game, with first one player leading, then the other. The trick is to be in the first-scoring position when you are close enough to win!

Cribbage flush

If the four cards in your hand are of the same suit, you score four for a flush (a cribbage flush, unlike in poker, doesn't beat three of a kind!). If the starter card is also of the same suit, you score five. However, in the crib you cannot score a four-card flush; all five must be the same suit. These rules occasionally have local variations, so check to make sure which rules are being used. In an official tournament, the American Cribbage Congress rules apply.

Some cribbage rules sites explicitly state that flushes are not scored in cribbage. This is incorrect, at least according to the American Cribbage Congress rules, which are the nearest thing to an official set of rules for cribbage.

Cribbage pairs

2 points are scored for a pair in cribbage, and 6 for a pair royal - that is, three cards of the same rank. This can be considered as 3 different pairs worth 2 points each. Similarly, double pair royal (four of a kind) scores 12 as there are 6 ways of picking two cards from four. You begin to see why mathematicians love this game.

Combinations of cards making 15 score two points each - for example, 8 and 7. As many ways as you can make 15 with your cards, you score 2 points for each of them. For example, 8-7-7-A can make 15 three ways: the 8 and one 7, the 8 and the other 7, and the 7-7-A. Consequently it scores 6 points (for 15s, and a further 2 for the pair of 7s).

Cribbage runs

Runs score as many points as there are cards in them. For example, a four-card run 9-T-J-Q scores 4.

Cribbage nobs

You also score 1 point if you have the Jack of the same suit as the starter card (known as 'his nob' or just 'nobs').

Cribbage scoring chart

You can print out this cribbage scoring chart and keep it handy when you're playing!

Score	Value	Comment
15	2	-
Pair	2	-
Pair royal	6	Three of a kind
Double pair royal	12	Four of a kind
Run	1 per card	Runs need not be in numerical order (eg 3-5-6-4) but they must be consecutive (3-4-4-5 does not score).
Go	1	The go is scored by the last player to lay a card.
31	2	The 2 points for 31 includes a go (by definition no-one can go when the total is 31). So no extra point is scored for the go.
Nobs	1	'One for his nob' is scored if you hold the Jack of the turn-up suit.

Scoring a 29 hand

Submitted by admin on Wed, 08/19/2009 - 12:20

Dennis writes:

Can you break down the count of 29 as it is supposed to be counted? It seems you are not allowing the Jack to be counted with the 4 5's for another 8 points which would give 36 points.
Please help me with my confusion over this.
Kind Regards.
Newbie

Cribbage Flush In The Crib Combo

Dennis,

The 29 cribbage hand page does not explain how the score is broken down, so here goes!

We score the 29 hand in the same way as any other: taking 15s first, then pairs, runs, flushes and nobs.

Cribbage Flush In The Crib

First count 15s. The Jack makes 15 with each of the 5s, that's 4 15s. Also, there are 4 ways of choosing three different 5s to make additional 15s. That's 8 in total, for 16 points.

Then pairs: there are 6 different pairs of 5s, for another 12 points. That's 28 so far.

There are no runs or flushes, so the Jack of nobs gives us a final point for 29.

I hope this helps!

Runs in the play

Submitted by admin on Wed, 09/03/2008 - 11:24

Ty Nielson emailed to ask:

So, we’re having some controversy in the office over some of the rules of the cribbage game, all being long time players of cribbage and each of us having slight variations in the rules that we want to play. For the rules that I request please answer with the rules that would be played in a traditional cribbage tournament. This is very important, it’s a business full of wrestlers, knife vendors, construction workers and young people, its getting pretty rough around the company deck here if you can imagine.

When in play, and three people are playing cards off of one another, and a sequence of cards is thrown (3, 5, 4) do the cards have to be in sequence? Does the above throw represent a run of three for the thrower of the 4?
Now assuming that 3,5,4,2 were played…. Do the last three cards have to be in sequence or is this 4 points for the player of the 2?
Once this 4 card series is played, if 3,5,4,2,3 is played is this three points because it is the last three cards which must be in sequence? Or is this a double run of 4 for 8 (not counting the pair)?
Similarly if the next card played is a 4, will this count as a double double run of four? How would this be counted.
What are the specific rules for adding to runs in game play?
During tournament cribbage, when the dealer has 4 cards in the crib of the same suit that do not match the lead card which was cut from the deck how does the dealer count his crib? Flush or not?
If you have a detailed standard set of rules

Ty, that's a lot of questions! We spoke to Ezra, Cribbage Corner's wrinkled retainer and rules librarian. His rheumy eyes peered over his horn-rimmed glasses as he said:

The most important rule to remember when counting runs in the play is this. 'Each card played scores points for the run it completes.'

To take your first example of 3, 5, 4, the 4 completes a run of 3 so it scores 3. It does not matter if the cards are not in sequence.

If the next player lays a 2, that completes a run of 4, so scores 4.

There are no double or triple runs in the play (those only count when scoring the hand). So if 3,5,4,2,3 is played the last card only completes a run of 4, so it scores 4.

If the next card is a 4, that completes a run of 3 (2-3-4) so scores 3.

If a pair is played, it scores points for a pair but not for a run. For example, 2-3-4-4 would score 2 points for the pair, but it does not complete any runs, so it does not score any run points. Laying a 5 on this does not complete a run, because of the two 4s preceding it, so scores nothing. Remember there are no multiple runs in the play.

Your last question about the flush is simpler to answer. Remember 'No 4-card flushes in the crib'. While you can score a 4-card flush in the hand, in the crib all 5 cards must be of the same suit to score.

While there are no truly official rules for cribbage, the American Cribbage Congress is the recognised governing body for tournament cribbage in the United States and most tournaments worldwide are played according to its rules:

However, most of these relate to handling unusual situations (misdeals, mis-pegging and so on). For a detailed explanation of the mechanics of cribbage play, Pagat.com's Six Card Cribbage page is very useful.

Scoring a flush in the crib

Submitted by admin on Thu, 07/17/2008 - 12:49

James Walker emailed to ask:

four card flush...I know it counts fourin hand ...BUT does it score four in CRIB ?

There is a special rule for a flush in the crib. Normally, if you have four or more cards of the same suit in your hand, including the turn up card, you can score a flush. In the crib, however, a flush only scores if all four cards AND the turn up are the same suit. In other words, only a 5-card flush counts in the crib.

Cribbage etiquette

Etiquette is important in card games, cribbage more than most. It is regarded as a gentleman's game (naturally, for card-playing purposes, ladies can be gentlemen too). Like most worthwhile things in life, it is surrounded by complicated and often incomprehensible ritual. However, in an important sense the ritual is the game and so you dispense with it at your peril.

Before the game

Determine whether or not Muggins will be played. If you want to play Muggins but your opponent does not, be gracious and honour his wishes. After all, he is doing you a favour by giving up his time to play cards with you. You should also give your opponent his choice of game - five-card cribbage, six-card cribbage, short game, long game, best of three, best of five, and so forth. The wily pegger never passes up a chance to hone his skills and broaden his experience by playing something different from his usual game.

Some players allow a four-card flush in the crib; though this is not standard, it is a not unreasonable variation and makes for slightly higher scores. However you should determine in advance whether this will be allowed.

Various additions to the standard rules of cribbage are sometimes played, especially in tournaments: for example, that one cannot peg out on a go, or other restrictions on scoring. Unless such rules are specifically mentioned you should assume that you are playing standard cribbage. Once the game has started it is too late to change the rules.

The cut

Most official rules of cribbage stipulate a mandatory cut by pone before the deal. It is indeed common practice to make this cut; however, because it is specifically designed to prevent the dealer cheating, some feel it an unnecessary slur on their character. In games like poker, of course, often played with strangers and for high stakes, such measures are essential. Cribbage is a legacy of a more gentlemanly age (notwithstanding the rumours about Sir John Suckling). A gentleman does not imply that another gentleman might not be a gentleman.

Similarly, the rules allow for pone to take the deck and shuffle it himself before the deal. While perfectly legal, this would be an unusual thing to do and implies that the dealer is suspect.

Our own preference is to skip the cut, if only because it saves a little time. However, if pone requests the cut, of course you must grant it.

Pegging

During the pegging, when you play a card, announce the count clearly and follow it by any score you may have made. For example:

Pone: Four.
Dealer: Ten.
Pone: Fifteen five. [pegs]
Dealer: Twenty for two. [pegs]
Pone: Twenty-five for six. [pegs]
Dealer: Go.
Pone: One for the go. [pegs]

Dealer: Seven. And one for last. [pegs]

You should not peg for your opponent unless you have agreed that one of you will peg for both. Conversely, remember to peg your own points!

Scoring

Lay your cards face up in front of you so that everyone can see and check your scoring. Announce the combinations in a set order - usually: fifteens, pairs, runs, flushes and nobs. As you announce each combination point out the cards involved. For example:

'Fifteen-two, fifteen-four; a pair is six; and nobs is seven.'

Familiar fifteen/pair combinations such as Q-Q-5-5 (12 points) should nonetheless be announced individually: 'fifteen-two, fifteen-four, fifteen-six, fifteen-eight, and two pairs is 12'. Simply announcing 'I have 12' saves only a few seconds, and tells nothing about how the combinations are formed - possibly confusing your fellow players. You may miss points yourself if you try to count by recognising whole sets of combinations at once. At the worst say 'Fifteen-eight and two pairs is 12'. No-one will rebuke you for counting carefully and methodically, as long as you do not waste time. Similarly, combinations such as a double run of 3 (8 points) should be announced as 'two runs of three is six, and a pair is eight'.

Speed

Cribbage should be played allegro, ma non troppo. In other words, don't dawdle, but don't rush it either. Presumably you are playing the game for the enjoyment of it, in which case it should be treated as something to be savoured rather than rushed through at maximum speed.

This is not to say that one should play slowly. Save as much time as you can on things which don't require any thought - riffling, shuffling, dealing and cutting should all be done quickly and without fuss. The temptation is always to talk while one is shuffling, to analyse the previous hand, and so on. Avoid this. Shuffle smoothly and silently, then deal. Talk about the game after the game.

The time you save here can profitably be re-invested in thinking about your discards and plays. Take as much time as you need, but no longer than that. Pretending to ponder over ones discard, perhaps hoping to imply that you have an excellent hand, is not only against etiquette but boots nothing - unless your opponent is so intimidated that he resigns on the spot!

Strive to avoid the temptation, if you are losing badly, to slow right down, distract your opponent with chatter, and generally delay the inevitable. Apart from being bad sportsmanship, it delays the moment when you can start a new, and perhaps more successful game. On a strategic note, it is never worth giving up on a game. If you are losing, you should be fighting hard for every point, and striving to avoid a skunk. If you have no chance of avoiding the skunk, strive to avoid the double skunk! There is always work to be done. At the worst, you can use the freedom of this situation to try out new ideas and experimental plays which you would not risk in a game-leading position.

After the game

If you won, don't crow about it. If you lost, don't gripe about it. Either way, thank your opponent for the game. Compliment her on her play if you thought it was good; keep quiet if it wasn't. Insincere compliments are worth no more in cribbage than any other field.

Refrain from long post-mortems. Do not point out your opponent's mistakes or faults unless she specifically asks you for a critique.

How to cheat at cribbage

Cheating in a friendly card game is pointless, and dangerous in any other kind, so we don't recommend it. But it is possible to cheat in cribbage, and it would be wise to know how to spot if someone is trying to cheat you.

One way to cheat at cribbage is to miscount your hand, particularly when counting quickly, and to announce scores that you haven't in fact made. Always check-count your opponent's hand, and don't let them rush you if it is a tricky score to calculate. It is quite possible to make innocent mistakes when counting, but if your opponent repeatedly overcounts her hand, beware.

Over-pegging your score is another form of cribbage cheating. In a fast-paced game it is easy to peg more points than you made. Double-check your opponent's pegging.

It is illegal in cribbage to renege; that is, to fail to play a card when the rules say you can. It happens often that your opponent lays down his last card leaving you with several small cards in hand. You must play them all if you can. If your opponent says 'Go', and following the restart of the count lays down a card that he could have played before the Go, this is a renege and against the rules of cribbage. Usually reneging is simply a mistake, but if this happens more than once in a game your opponent may be trying to cheat you. (The penalty in tournament play for reneging is detailed on the renege page.)

Penalties in cribbage

In games where anything other than fun is at stake, penalty points usually apply to offences such as glancing at the bottom card, looking into the crib, or moving your opponent's pegs. See our cribbage penalties page for full details of the penalty points that apply in formal play.